This has the advantage that if the anchors, you and the second are not in a straight line then when the second falls the rope is better under control than with option 2.Ģ. It is always a good idea to be able to watch the second(s) climb, hence you might need to sit some distance from the anchors. Have a bit of practice with it first then go from there. It is a great tool for bringing up two seconds allowing you to bring in the rope at two different speeds, this is when i mostly use it. The addition of the karabiner holes and advertisements of them being easy to release is not strictly true. I know how to lower someone off a guide plate, but it is not something I want to do regularly. Releasing a fixed load off a guide plate is not easy and can quickly turn into a disaster, therefore I only use my guide mode if I am certain my second will complete the pitch. The belay must be bomb proof, you are risking a direct load to it, if you are a little slow in taking the rope in and the second falls it will create a fair amount of shock on the anchor. The benefits of a guide plate are very good but you must understand a few points before using one. Specs: 60 g (ATC) 80 g (Guide) ATC compatible with 7.What he is doing is not best practice and the normal method of extending yourself from the belay and belay normally would have been better. Recommendation: All belayers with available instruction Overall, ATCs are a staple for belaying and rappelling, but there is just less room for error with these devices than assisted braking devices. In choosing between these devices, consider how much weight/price budgets and your intended use for the device. The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side), and it is cheaper than the Guide, though both are on the cheaper end for belay devices. The Guide is a bit heavier than the base ATC, but it has ridges that add friction to the system, and you can use it for multi-pitch climbing. They can be used for belaying and rappelling, with a wide range of rope diameters, and are relatively light compared to most assisted braking devices. Similarly, rappelling can be more comfortable with these ridges as it generally feels a bit smoother.īoth devices are basic, tube style, friction belay devices that are not assisted braking devices but can teach belayers valuable skills. The grooves on the Guide provide extra friction so as to aid belayers in lowering their climbers (note this does not make the Guide an assisted braking device). Consequently, however, it follows that belayers who are conversant with devices like ATCs can be more skilled/focussed belayers because of the extra care needed to use these devices, and for some a better belayer is more important than a better device. Indeed, this is a major reason why many gyms require that their patrons belay exclusively with assisted braking devices in the gym many argue that climbers are dropped more often with devices like ATCs because there is extra expertise and focus required to lower properly with them. Since ATCs are not assisted braking devices, it can be a challenge to control lowering or rappelling speeds with certain climber weights or rope types. Extra hole for applications such as multi-pitch.You can consider the Guide to be two steps above the ATC in terms of upgrades, which would be: Perhaps because I learned to belay on this device, I think it can be a good device to learn belaying with because of how basic it is-no detail is obscured, forcing you to see and learn the fundamental principles of belaying. Even more, it’s exceptionally straightforward…it’s really hard to set it up wrong, and while belaying it does exactly what you ask it to without snagging, extra levers, etc. It’s very light, and it can be used for rappelling as well. It is a tube style belay device without any special teeth for functionality to assist in braking. The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)-I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. I will not pretend like I can give you an expert’s opinion…but I do believe it is a nuanced matter without a clear right or wrong. There’s a lot of talk out there about the safety and usefulness of belay devices without assisted braking (e.g., ATCs).
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |